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Running into Hell: From the front
lines of Haiti. 2010
by Nolan Davis
It was cold. Colder then I was really comfortable with or
prepared for as our small 10 seater plane streaked through the
clear blue skies above Haiti. As the altitude dipped the
temperature began to climb as we passed through one of the lush
tropical valleys on our final assent into Haiti. I looked bellow
as the shadow of our tiny plane crossed from jungle to fields
and then into the trash covered streets of the city. Even from
the air it was clear that things were horribly wrong in Haiti.
Even before the cabin door was fully open the smell of Haiti hit
me. It is smell unlike any other that is a unique mix of
garbage, sewage, people, petrol, and smoke. It is this smell,
the heat, and the sights the truly tell your mind and body that
you have arrived in Hell.
We traveled by 4 wheel drive SUVs to the compound that would be
our home for our time in Haiti. Its ten foot walls surround
several small brick buildings that give us a place to sleep,
eat, and space to try and relax. Although, such is difficult
when you are in a land where the water is poison, the food is
toxic, and nothing, including you, is ever clean. The roads are
largely unpaved and are instead a collection of pot holed dirt
trails that stretch through the jungles and fields to connect
one poor village to the next. The dust that is kicked up is so
thick that it becomes almost blinding at times, and leaves
visitors, including myself, with a lingering cough as a reminder
that we were once strangers in a harsh land.
Most people fail to understand or imagine not just the danger,
but logistics of coming to this kind of extreme environment even
before the earthquake much less after. Despite it being winter
in Haiti, day time highs push 100 degrees and there is little to
no rain through this season. The average person needs to drink
at least 4 liters of water per day to continue to function, and
more if you plan to do any outdoor work. The native language of
Creole is a unique combination of french and african dialects
and is best thought of as "The Ebonics of French". As such,
translators are required who not only know both languages, but
can also read and write in both in order to be fully helpful.
There is no Roseta Stone or other such product for Creole and
with a literacy rate of less then 20% Haiti is short on those
educated enough to be bi-lingual.. Due to massive amounts of
insects, animals, and other creeping things; there are very few
secure and clean places for Americans to sleep. Even after you
establish your base of operations at one of those few locations
getting anywhere else is extremely difficult. Transportation
must be acquired that is able to carry large amounts of cargo
and people, drive off-road, forward small rivers, and not break
down in the middle of the jungle. Combine that with a driver who
is willing to take a vehicle of any kind onto streets where the
only rule of the road is that the largest vehicle has the most
right of way as well as knowing where the endless dusty paths
lead to what unpronounceable impoverished village; and you are
looking at a huge challenge just to go further than walking
distance from your front door. And that is only if you can find
fuel for your journey as well. Clean water is rare and must be
bought only from trusted sources in already sealed containers.
One must also bring in all of your food for your visit that is
already cooked and requires no water or heat to make. Anything
locally that is eaten or drank will quickly give you a case of
"Haitian Happiness" better known as dysentery. Electricity is
rare even in the best of times, and communication with the
outside world is often little more then wishful thinking. All of
this comes of course comes after getting vaccinated for
Hepatitis A, B, C, Tuberculosis, Typhoid, Tetanus, Malaria, and
paid for 'de-worming' medications for when you get back to the
US. May God have mercy on you if you get sick or injured before
you make it back. The good news is that once all of these things
(and a few more) are done you can then start to think about such
things as how you are going to distribute rice and beans to the
poor and starving without causing a riot. In order to even begin
to help on the ground in Haiti, requires careful planning for
months and weeks in advance as well as physical and mental
preparations.
After the earthquake hit, we were on the ground in 5 days. Truly
God was with us.
Some have called us "Heros" for going and helping. I personally
feel very undeserving of such a term. I was given an opportunity
to simply be an ambassador for the aid and love that was so
generously given by so many. The heros of Haiti are those who
gave money during a down economy. Who bought medicine for others
when they needed it themselves. Who prayed not just for our team
but for the nation as a whole that God would be with all of us.
And especially the Haitians who went without water or food so
that their fellow survivors could have some. Generosity of such
precious resources was hardly uncommon in Haiti. In fact, when
we began giving out food to those who were bed ridden in the
hospital (a virtual death sentence in Haiti) we often had to
force them to keep the food because they would try to give it
away to other patients around them that they saw as "more
needy". The eyes of the world may be on Haiti in this crisis,
but I promise you that the eyes of the Haitians are focused on
God and on each other. Not on themselves.
God has always been a large part of the lives of many in Haiti.
They feel a close comfort to Him that I have rarely seen
exhibited in America. What was amazing to me was that the belief
in the goodness of God was so strong that I did not speak with
one Haitian, one Survivor, one person; who blamed God for the
earthquake. Yes their was sorrow. Yes, fear and even anger were
there too, but blame and hate were never a part of the language
that was used. Instead, time and time again I heard echos of the
phrase from Job 1; "The Lord giveth, and the Lord taketh away.
Blessed be the name of the Lord." One of the best and most
unique ways I saw the faith in God through the earthquake was
the story of one man who had survived in Port A Prince due
solely to his faith. He said that when he felt the earth move
and the roar of the quake he thought that it was the end of
time. He ran outside and into the street where he fell to his
knees, held his hands high, and yelled for the Lord to come and
take him home. As the buildings around him came down and screams
filled the air the man praised the Lord and thanked him for his
return. Sadly, when the man told this story he began to cry. for
he had lost his family, his friends, his children and all that
he had. But even in this, he still praised the Lord. I hope that
I will never be able to understand his fear, his loss, or his
disappointment.
By now many people are beginning to recognize the Haitian flag
whenever they see it. Haiti, like America lives beneath a banner
of red, white, and blue. The two countries have long been
connected in commerce and in spirit. Haiti has the same
undeniable fire and passion for greatness that America has
always embodied. If the roles were reversed, I have no doubt
that those in Haiti that could would send aid to the US. Many
pray for the US and those they know in it, by name, daily. How
lucky we are to have such wonderful people praying for us as we
pray for them! The earthquake may have destroyed many things,
but it only made the love that is shared between our two
countries stronger, On the morning of our final day one of the
local leaders in Cap-Haitian, Lucner Pierre, came to see us to
the airport, but also to give each of us a simple gift. To each
on our team he gave a Haitian flag. It was so simple, but it
meant so much. It was given in thanks for those who had
survived, and in the memory of those that hadn't. It was handed
simply to each of us with two words, "Thank you." Lucner
promised that Haiti will not forget the work we had done there,
and that many lives were changed and saved by our efforts. I
felt so unworthy to be given such a gift. As the plane took off
and once again the heat was replaced with the cold atmospheric
chill. I reached into my bag and pulled the red white and blue
cloth close to my chest. Like many before, It caught my tears as
we left Haiti behind. Many people warned us before we left that
we were running into Hell, and they were more right then they
know. We did run into Hell, but Heaven was all around.
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